Textile Geometry Reference

Structure, grading and tension — how fabric becomes form.

A working reference for engineers, pattern makers and product developers: three-dimensional weave architecture, size grading logic, CAD specification conventions, and the mechanics of tensioned fabric structures.

REF-01

3D Textile Architecture

Three-dimensional fabrics add a through-thickness yarn system to the familiar warp and weft, trading drape for delamination resistance and near-net-shape preforms.

StructureBinder pathTypical use
OrthogonalZ-yarn perpendicular to planeComposite preforms
Angle-interlockDiagonal, layer-to-layer or throughBallistic, aerospace
SpacerPile yarns join two facesCushioning, ventilation
Multiaxial NCF0° / 90° / ±45° stitchedWind blades, panels

REF-02

Pattern Grading Rules

A grade rule moves each cardinal point of a base-size pattern by a set x/y increment per size. Increments usually widen at a break point where the size range shifts.

Size spanBust / waist / hip stepNote
XS → M1″Base range
M → L1½″Break point
L → XXL2″Extended range

Illustrative only. Every brand sets its own grade table from its fit model and target customer.

REF-03

CAD Spec Utilities

A complete tech pack lets a factory sample without a phone call. The core sheets, in the order a factory reads them:

  1. 01Flats — front, back and detail views, to scale.
  2. 02BOM — shell, lining, trims, labels, with supplier codes.
  3. 03POM sheet — points of measure with how-to-measure notes.
  4. 04Grade table — every POM across the size run.
  5. 05Construction — seam types, stitch per inch, allowances (⅜″, ½″, ⅝″).
  6. 06Tolerances — commonly ±¼″ to ±½″ on major body POMs.

REF-04

Tensioned Fabric Matrices

Membrane structures carry load through pre-stress and double curvature. Anticlastic (saddle) surfaces resist both uplift and downward load; panels are cut slightly undersize — compensated — so they tension into shape.

MembraneStrengthsService life
PVC / polyesterEconomical, foldable~15–20 yr
PTFE / glassNon-combustible, self-cleaning25 yr +
Silicone / glassHigh translucency, flexible20 yr +
ETFE foilClear cushions, very light25 yr +